Odawara / Hakone / Gora / Lake Ashi - Tuesday 15 October

Today was our scheduled visit to the Hakone area to allow Alison to see some scenic wonders including a closer view of Mt Fuji. We met a former teaching colleague of Alison's, Sachiko, who now teaches at an international school in Tokyo, at Odawara Station. Unfortunately Typhoon Whipa decided to join us for the excursion! Inspite of the weather conditions we purchased our Hakone Passes and headed off to make use of the various modes of transport to get us to Lake Ashi.

First by local train to Hakone-Yumoto, then another smaller local train which uses a switchback line to take passengers up to Gora. The trip involves a series of stops where the conductor and driver swap ends and the train heads off again in the opposite direction. Beautiful green forests along the way (where are the autumn colours?) and much low cloud and drizzling rain. Sachiko last visited this area when she was very young so it was interesting for her as much as it was for us.

This train terminates at Gora and then there is a transfer to the Hakone Tozan Cablecar (a funicular railway) which heads up a very steep mountainside at right angles to the train line. Fairly crowded so Philip and Sachiko stood for the journey. This mode of transport terminates at Sounzan.

Philip and Sachiko on the cable train

Next transportation is on the Hakone Ropeway which is a cableway with suspended gondolas which each hold about 12 passengers.

Alison and Sachiko on the gondola ride

When the clouds were starting to come over

Weather looked better on this gondola so we thought that we should take the opportunity

The journey involves a change of gondola system at Owakudanai where you can smell sulphur and see sulphurous gases emanating from the ground on the mountainside below the ropeway station - that is if the cloud level is not at or below the ropeway station!

P and A in the sulphur fumes and cloud and drizzle at Owakudani

Whilst silently floating through the sky or in today's case the clouds, a commentary is provided pointing out the various scenic highlights, e.g. "to the right passengers will see spectacular views of Mt Fuji and the Japanese Alps." or as the gondola descends towards Lake Ashi - "Passengers will see the sun glinting off beautiful Lake Ashi." In addition the brochures describe the period from September to November as "Silver Grass Season" "with magnificent scenery of fields of silver grass stretching out across the base of Mt Daigatake." Oh that's right someone forgot to tell the climate that this is Autumn and things should be dying off and colouring!

At Togendai-Ko one leaves the gondola ride and heads down to a pier to catch one of the replica sailing / pirate ships which then cruise across Lake Ashi

Our cruise boat

and if you don't wish to disembark, back gain to the starting point. Why disembark when it is raining

Hakone Machi-Ko end of Lake Ashi

and that would not make walking along an ancient 2 km long cedar avenue planted in 1818 during the Edo Period a very pleasant experience!

Red tori gate on Lake Ashi

These swans only come out in summer!

Back at Togendai-Ko we gave the restaurant a quick once over and decided that even though it was now noon that we hold out for food until we returned to the starting point of our journey at Odawara. Into a gondola for the ride up not into but through the clouds and now fairly persistent rain and for some reason we were not allocated a gondola of our own, as had been happening right in front of us, but were "bundled" with a pushy father in a Japanese family of three. As soon as the gondola swung out and was on its way, the father in the group removed his shoes. Alison commented quietly to Sachiko and Philip that someone must have taken off their shoes. Shortly after, Sachiko began translating a conversation coming from the adult daughter of the group telling her father to put on his shoes as the international guests would notice the smell. We (the three of us) all had a good laugh.

At the gondola change station at Owakudani, Alison noticed a picture of an interesting food item available at the cafe. A curried pirate bun which was coloured black with squid ink. Alison insisted on buying one and then the three of us shared it -and surprisingly it was quite delicious.

Pirate curry bun

Sachiko enjoying her third of the bun

Back into a ropeway gondola and down to take the cableway train down the steep slope.

Short wait then at Gora for the little switchback train and so standing on the platform we are joined in the queue by a European woman. Alison looks at her and says "I know you, you're from the Gold Coast" and the woman replies "Alison isn't it?" Turns out to be a couple who at one stage owned the deli outside Woolworths at Runaway Bay! Anne and Warwick then sat with us for the 40 minute journey down  and chatted about their and our adventures in Japan. Unlike us they were flying Jetstar Business Class!

Finally back to Odawara just before 3pm and lunch in a coffee shop with a latte made by a barista not by a push button machine. We farewelled Sachiko and after reserving seats for the next Shinkansen headed down to wait on the platform. At this stage in a short period of time Alison felt the earth move, not once but twice! Philip was not responsible and no there was not an earthquake in addition to the typhoon. In fact the whole incident was caused by not one but two Nozomi Shinkansen passing through the station whilst we sat on the open platform. As these trains make few stops along the way they travel at full speed and come from nowhere and the noise and pressure gust on the open platform is something to experience! Alison is still getting over it. The trains are VERY FAST!

Tonight we have given up on Japanese cuisine and dined on Big Mac meals at the McDonald's store near our hotel entrance. We will sleep in tomorrow morning and see what the weather brings. Reasonably heavy rain is forecast for the day at this stage.

All things being equal and without the impact of climate change this is more of the view that we should have captured today (minus the snow of course!!!). Thanks to the friendly staff of the railway company for providing strategically placed posters which digital cameras can capture when the real things are hiding!

A Day in Tokyo - Monday 14 October

A slow day planned with not too much as we were to meet up with Kumiko and Marika at the Tokyo Sky Tree at 10am. According to the JApanese the Sky Tree Tower is the tallest in the world at 650 metres, or there abouts. Today was a national holiday in Japan so still lots of sightseers around but the train was not crowded when Alison and I headed off just after 8am.

Philip had gone for a little stroll yesterday evening and found a more direct route to get from our hotel across to Shinagawa Station and so we used that path this morning. There is a McDonalds along the way and Alison has mentioned that she might be in need of a burger and fries one day soon! Caught a train on the Yamanote loop line to Ueno and changed there to the Tokyo Metro Ginza line at great expense (Y160 each) for the journey to Asakusa. All was going smoothly until we realised that we were heading the wrong way on the Metro train away from Asakusa! Disembarked at the next station, crossed the platform and we were soon on our way in the right direction.

The walk from Asakusa Station to Tokyo Sky Tree is about 15 minutes and we had a pleasant stroll including crossing the Tokyo River.

Alison on the bridge across the Tokyo River with Sky Tree in the background

Along the way we saw a lady taking her little dog for a ride with her on her pushbike - Patch would be jealous.

Arrived at the Sky Tree plaza where we were scheduled to meet Kumiko and Marika and they spotted us from the Starbucks where they had been having breakfast. We being the last of the big spenders had breakfasted on banana and apple in the hotel before leaving! Then headed past a shop specialising in dog accessories and dog themed human clothes and accessories. The window display caught our eye but we only looked and did not buy. There was even a model of a golden retriever at the door dressed in a black witches hat and cape.

Then headed into the lobby of the Sky Tree building where Alison and Marika decided to use the toilets and were astounded to discover after they had queued that there was in fact only one cubicle in the facility on that floor. No wonder the queue was so long. Maybe it is regarded by the building owners as good training for the queueing that is necessary if one wants to actually go up to the observation levels of the Sky Tree. Whilst we were waiting in this area we came across the two characters below!

Where else in the world would you see men dressed like this???

We went up to the entry area to check on the wait time and also to have a look up at the tower from the outside viewing area. 

Also spotted another costumed person, this one all in black and wearing a full black gas mask!

Up to the shopping levels and we parted company from Kumiko and Marika for an hour whilst they shopped and we circumnavigated the food areas and some of the other shops. This place is full of clothing and accessories and food shops. Again many focused on Halloween.

Great display of salad items

Fresh fish

Another female all dressed up and this time a little prettier than the gas mask outfit

Just to show that we didn't just look at food stores - note the name of the store and carriage at the front

Alison with Sky Tree Banana promoter!

A happy Marika with Bella the ballerina doll after lunch

Lunch in the food court, Alison and Philip enjoyed sauteed vegetables and a little bit of pork, shrimp and squid with rice. Still no octopus balls for Alison even though they were available at one of the food court outlets. We all walked back to Asakusa Station and caught the Ginza subway and farewelled Kumiko and Marika as we left the subway train at Ueno.

Made a stop at Yurakucho so that Alison could see the Ginza and the Mercure Hotel where Jessica and Philip stayed in 2008. Philip could not find the Mercure easily and Alison was feeling a little off so we headed back to the train station and were soon home at Shinagawa Station. Have stocked up on some bakery items for dinner tonight and breakfast for our trip to Mt Fuji area tomorrow. There is another Typhoon heading up the coast and there is a forecast for a very wet Tuesday night and Wednesday. We are hoping that tomorrow is okay for our cable car and ropeway ride to see Mt Fuji.

Farewell Kyoto - Hello Tokyo - Sunday 13 October

Beautiful cool weather to farewell us from Kyoto this morning and it was very pleasant sitting on the platform (yes we actually got a seat to wait on!)

Kyoto platform and breakfast

until our 7.29am Shinkansen left. Breakfasted on some savoury treats from the bakery while we waited and then were joined on the train about 1 hour later by Kumiko and her daughter Marika.

Very clear view of Mt Fuji from the train - lucky Kumiko was alert and let us know.

Mt Fuji from the Shinkansen

Arrived at Shinagawa Station and rolled our luggage to our hotel - Shinagawa Prince and left it there to head off to the Meiji Shrine and catch a glimpse of some of the young Japanese in outlandish costumes. Well the crowds were certainly present in the Harajuka district but we didn't catch sight of any dress-ups. Apart that is from many children - both boys and girls - in traditional dress.

Very proud mum and dad with their little boy at Meiji Shrine

Also lots of young mothers and fathers taking their babies to the shrine as a dedication ritual.

One of the many babies at the Meiji Shrine for dedication

Then to top every off we witnessed a full Shinto traditional wedding parade with every one done up to the nines and the procession led by Shinto priests and the bride and groom covered by a large traditional red bamboo umbrella. The bride is wearing a fancy head-dress and spectacular kimono. Kumiko said that we were very fortunate as she had never seen such a thing herself in real life.

Wedding procession 

Some traditional dress for guests and some not so traditional!

Lunched in a chain restaurant called Jonathan's where you had to record your name on a sheet at the door and wait for a vacancy.

Waiting for the lunch call

Whilst we waited we were able to watch the crowds milling up and down the street below us. We enjoyed a very filling lunch of noodles, pork and vegetables.

Chubby cheeks Philip enjoying lunch noodles!

Then headed back to the station via a narrow side street lined with the type of shops that young people like to frequent for their fashion purchases.

Know some people who would like one of these!

As bad or worse than 5th Avenue NYC in the week before Christmas.

Everyone wants to shop

We did manage to capture a photo of a young dress up girl at the beginning of the walk, looked for all the world like Alice in Wonderland, she even had a rabbit, but it wasn't white.

Alison gets herself a walking, talking, living doll!

and a grim reaper look alike at the rail station end.

The Grim Reaper

Back into Harajuka Station and on to Ueno to change onto the subway to reach Asakusa Shrine and the associated shopping street. Arrived "safely" in spite of Philip taking a tumble on the stairs in the station while the other three members of the touring group continued on in front of him blissfully unaware of his mishap. Fortunately he landed bottom first with his camera well cushioned by his sixpack or twelve pack or slab and only a slight straining of his left hand and wrist. Yes well, tomorrow might bring on bruises!

Wall to wall crowds again in the walk up to the shrine but found a store with door hangings as we wanted to replace the one that hangs across our bedroom door at home. The current one has lasted since Jessica and Philip's trip in 2008. Alison was really pleased to get one showing a maiko and the Golden Pavilion. Also found a vendor selling Takoyaki but Alison could not be convinced by Marika that they were in fact delicious and she should try some!

No takoyaki for Alison!

Tried a small doughy sweet filled with Japanese plum along the way. Finally broke through the crowds at the shrine end of the street and looked around to see the Tokyo Sky Tree just off to the "who knows what direction".

At Asakusa with Tokyo Sky Tree in background

We left Marika and Kumiko at Asakusa

as their hotel was nearby and we journeyed back by subway and the Yamanote Circle line to Shinagawa. Reclaimed our luggage and joined a long queue for check-in and then to our room on Floor 28 of the Main Tower and on opening our curtains we found that we were looking out to Mt Fuji bathed in a golden sunset.

Mt Fuji and sunset from our hotel room

Hotel does not have an ice machine so we are finishing off our Pepsi Nex without cooling!

Will settle in for the night with the plan to meet up with Kumiko and Marika tomorrow morning near the Tokyo Sky Tree.

Taking It Easy In Kyoto - Saturday 12 October

No alarm set for this morning and a leisurely start today with a sampling of the buffet breakfast available at our hotel. Y1000 each and it was worth the money but we would not have needed such a large breakfast each morning.

Philip's first trip to the buffet - please note apple juice not ale!

After heading down to the little ma and pa drapery near the hotel to purchase another soba husk pillow for Philip's sister Jenny (and the owners were so pleased to see us as repeat customers), our next plan was to stroll over to have a look at Yodabashi Camera and to find a Y100 shop for Alison to experience. The hotel reception staff informed us that there was one on the 5th floor of the Avanti Mall but we could not find it. Walked through the subterranean labyrinth which connects just about every where in central Kyoto with the rail station and ended up at Yodabashi Camera. Started our journey of discovery at the 6th floor and worked our way down to the second basement. Success, two main stores of interest for us there - a supermarket and an elusive Y100 shop. 

Picked ourselves some huge apples and not so huge bananas for lunch to satisfy our craving for fresh fruit. 

Apples and bananas plus new knife.

Then Alison was on a mission at the Y100 shop where each item actually costs Y105 as a result of tax. Large amount of money changed hands at the register Y1995! Many gifts purchased and even a folding fan for Alison and a knife to cut up our huge apples. Strolled back to the hotel in what can only be described as perfect autumn weather with a beautiful cool breeze blowing. Where had this weather been for the rest of the week????

Lunched in our room on our fruit and then Alison had a nanna nap while Philip took himself to sit in one of the lounge chairs in the lobby and read his Jack Reacher novel. 

Headed off over to the Porta Food area to choose a restaurant for a set meal (early dinner). Ended up (Philip believes) at the same one that he and Jessica ate at in 2008. Holiday set special for the long weekend was rice, salad, pickled vegies, sesame egg soup, sweet and sour pork, sechuan tofu and rice. All served with a pot of piping hot jasmine tea for Y1000 each. 

We ordered gyoza on the side and a non-alcholic Asahi beer each. Sat at table in the back of the restaurant and the party beside us consisted of mother and teenage daughter in traditional costume and brother or boyfriend in normal western dress. In amongst the large holiday crowds at the station, there are quite a few females in traditional dress. There are also some in not so traditional dress as you will see in the photo below - more Halloween promotion! Set-up like Pixie Foto at home with costumes available to dress the children in for the snaps.

No so traditional Japanese costumes!

Back through the crowds to a a bakery we have been to before to purchase a couple of small savoury items which will be our breakfast on the Shinkansen to Tokyo in the morning. The way to that simple bakery takes us past another one which specialises in elaborate flans/tarts/cakes. Most of them are piled with various types of sliced fresh fruit - it gives a whole new meaning to the term fruit flan!

Fruit flan heaven!

So that brings to an end our tales for Kyoto. We will pack tonight and be at the station early for our 7.29am train tomorrow morning. We will be joined on the train at Nagoya station by our Japanese friend Kumiko and her daughter Marika who will come with us to Tokyo for some sightseeing on Sunday and Monday. Marika has not been to Tokyo before.

So we took it easy today after going flat out through the rest of the week in the hot weather, if only it had been like this on those days we may have achieved even more ticks. Did not get to Fushimi Inari Shrine, Nijo Castle or the old Imperial Palace but Alison was happy with what we did get to see inspite of missing these.

Day Trip to Kanazawa - Friday 11 October

Shaky start to the day with Philip a little under the weather - probably the after effects of too many beef croquettes for dinner last night! He dosed up on lomotil and stemotil and we headed off to the station for an 8.11am Thunderbird Express to Kanazawa. Suffice to say that he survived the day without any mishaps and didn't need to use the toilets on the 2hr 10 minute train journey either way.

Farmland along the way

Large statue on a hill near one of the Onsen towns outside Kanazawa

He was however quite taken by the toilet in the disabled cubicle that he used at Kanazawa station. The toilet style was western and included both one for an adult and also a tiny one for disabled children!

Mini disabled toilet!

Checked in at the Tourist Information Centre at Kanazawa station regarding buses to the Kenrokuen Gardens and the helpful lady was a little shocked when we indicated that we believed that there was a JR bus that we could use. Ah but the driver does not speak English and the stops are announced in Japanese! We indicated that we did not see this as an issue as it would be costing us nothing to use the service so she informed us where to catch the bus and gave us a timetable with the stops shown in Japanese and English. Easy peasy. Hopped off across the road from the gardens

Scene right beside bus stop and below Kanazawa Castle Wall

and made our way up to the entrance, parted with some more of our preciousYen and began a saunter through these beautiful traditional style gardens alternately using our umbrellas to shield us from sun and showers. Humidity still high but not so bad as the past few days.

Some real autumn colours appearing

The care that is taken with supporting the tree branches! 

View down from a hill in the gardens 

Leave sweepers

View across the lake in Kenrokuen, with a mere hint of autumn.

Walked across the road to Kanazawa Castle

before catching the JR bus back to the station and organised tickets for an earlier return train to Kyoto and then decided that we would like to have our first latte since arriving in Japan so lunched at the German Bakery Cafe in the station on coffee (not made by a barista - just a push button machine!), twisted sugar donut and flat parmesan bread.

Lots to choose from at the German Bakery

Lunch at normal time unlike "linner" yesterday!

More Halloween trappings at Kanazawa Station

Back on the Thunderbird Express for the trip home but not before Alison captured a photo of some maiko/geisha on a sign because we may not make the trip to see the real thing in the Gion in Kyoto because of the weather.

Not the real thing! But a really close second!

Thunderbirds are GO!

Now back in Kyoto and the clouds are back but there at least was a cooler breeze blowing as we walked from the station to our hotel. Alison has gone non-Japanese and eaten a Tuna Subway for dinner!